IT is such a treat to find good Malay food cooked to traditional family recipes at The Chow Kit Kitchen & Bar in Ormond The Chow Kit Hotel. Scanning the menu, the four of us were tempted to order most of the dishes.

How could we resist Kerabu Jantung Pisang, Rojak Rojak, Daging Salai Masak Lemak, Nasi Ulam Bowl and Botok Botok Ikan? We had all these and added to our lunch the much talked-about Chow Kit Nachos and the Chow Kit Fish & Chips.

The casual and relaxed setting in the hotel that channels old world elegance in a minimalist decor was just perfect for sharing the food. We are pleasantly “miles” away from the gritty neighbourhood Chow Kit is known for.

There are local elements in the Chow Kit Nachos (RM15), in the sweet tamarind glaze for the sweet potato, yam and tapioca crackers. A blend of budu, palm sugar, prawn paste and tamarind make up this sweet and salty sauce coating the crackers. They are wonderfully addictive, with a sprinkling of crushed peanuts completing them.

The Rojak Rojak (RM20) is a meal in itself. We were sold on the cucur udang with crispy edges and a soft prawny centre, crispy fried tempeh, sweet potato crackers, smoked beancurd, egg, shredded bangkuang and carrot, all brought together with a thick, sweet and nutty rojak sauce.

A third appetiser, the Kerabu Jantung Pisang (RM25), wowed us with the delicate shredded banana blossom tossed with mackerel flakes, kerisik, shallots, lemongrass and bunga kantan in a tangy santan dressing. There was more fried mackerel fillet at the side too, adding a richness to this salad.

The beef, just seasoned with salt and pepper, is smoked in-house for the delicious Daging Salai Masak Lemak. The meat is tender, yet with a chew on it and the creamy coconut gravy with baby eggplants is spicy and robust. We had this in a lunch set with basmati rice and vegetables (RM28).

Botok Botok Ikan (RM70) came wrapped in daun lerek, steamed with a meaty deboned pomfret inside smothered with papaya leaf, laksa leaves (daun kesom), daun kaduk, daun selom, ulam raja, shallots, garlic and a sambal paste. We were wowed by the fish which tasted fresh, sweet and fragrant, with oomph from the leaves and a light heat from the sambal.

A well-fried ikan kembong, marinated with turmeric, laid across the Nasi Ulam (RM28), surrounded by shredded daun selom, bunga kantan, kerisik, long beans and fried tempeh. The rice was lovely, with an aromatic lift from the selom and bunga kantan, crispy bites from tempeh, richness from kerisik, and the fresh sweetness of fish which we flaked off the bone and mixed into the rice.

I liked how The Chow Kit Fish & Chips (RM58) was dramatically presented, as a whole fried garoupa marinated with tandoori spices, showered with grated parmesan and served with crispy kale, thick hand-cut chips and tartar sauce. What is not to like in this meaty fresh fish with crispy fried skin. I much prefer this to a fish fillet dipped in batter and fried.

Desserts were the Musang King Custard (RM28) which was baked with a brown sugar crackling like creme brulee and Bubur Som Som topped with red beans (RM22). The durian custard could have been smoother and less dense. Bubur Som Som had the right flavour and texture but was a tad sweet.

The restaurant also serves a cempedak custard at the weekend, says The Chow Kit executive chef Nelson Samson, who also shared with us how each dish we had came about.

We shall be back.

The Malay traditional dishes on the menu were put together by The Chow Kit Group executive chef Ell (Jawahir Mustafa), from memories of his grandmother and mother’s cooking.

The Chow Kit Kitchen & Bar, The Chow Kit Hotel, is located at 1012 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03-2778 6666. – October 10, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.