WE’RE always in search of the best lei cha – rice with a flavourful “tea” broth, and various types of finely cut vegetables, roasted peanuts and fried ikan bilis stirred in.

My first encounter with this dish, which originated from the Hor Poh clan of the Hakka people, was at a broth-making demonstration.

Green tea leaves, roasted peanuts and sesame seeds are among the ingredients ground up in a grooved clay pot, using a stick made of guava wood. A hot, thick soup of blended basil and mint is then added.

We came upon a fine version of lei cha – literally “ground tea” – at T42, a fairly new cafe in Bukit Jalil.

Surrounding the rice are five kinds of vegetables: long beans, mustard greens, sayur manis, pickled radish and black-eyed peas. Roasted peanuts come on the side.

The fragrant green broth is poured into the bowl, and the peanuts follow. Extras, like fried ikan bilis and dried prawns, can be added, but we opted not to.

There’s a lovely balance of flavours in the broth, and the peanuts and some vegetables deliver a delightful crunch. The peas impart a welcome creaminess, while the sayur manis, true to its name, lends sweetness, and the radish gives a salty hit.

T42’s Lei Cha (RM15) certainly has a lot of oomph.

Before the main event, we nibbled on the Mozzarella Poppers (RM16) and Lemongrass Chicken Karaage (RM13).

The first has cheese and tomato paste stuffed in a spring roll wrapper, and then deep-fried.

I would’ve liked more tomato to offset the bland, stretchy cheese. The poppers are best eaten while hot, before the cheese turns rubbery.

Chunks of boneless chicken thigh, well marinated in fish sauce and lemongrass, are dipped in a light batter and deep-fried for the karaage.

The meat is crispy on the outside and moist within, made distinctive by the lemongrass.

Hot, aromatic and downright delicious, the Vegetable Curry Noodles (RM15) has long beans, eggplant, ladies’ fingers, cabbage, mushrooms, tofu puffs and soft, smooth slices of pan-fried gluten.

Tucked at the side, half immersed in the curry, are pieces of fu chuk crackle, providing a great textural contrast.

This is served with a calamansi, thoughtfully deseeded, to squeeze over the noodles.

I was bowled over by the winey taste of the Braised Chicken with Ginger Sauce (RM21), which is worth a repeat visit.

Kampung chicken, ginger and black fungus are cooked in rice wine, with a ginger omelette soaking up the broth. Rice and fried cabbage complete the dish.

The Bunga Kantan Prawn Linguine (RM25), Basil Fried Rice (RM13) and Nasi Lemak with Kampung Chicken Rendang (RM21) are among the attention-grabbing menu items to try out on another trip to this cafe, which offers healthy, pork-free fare.

T42 is located at 42, Jalan 17/155C in Bandar Bukit Jalil, 57000, Kuala Lumpur. It can be reached at 03-8999-6505. The eatery is closed on Tuesdays. – July 25, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.