SWEET and savoury join in blissful union in Zoe’s Durian Beef Massaman Curry (RM30).

The durian – Musang King, no less – is unmissable, but doesn’t overpower the spices and herbs used. Knobs of tender beef, baby and pea eggplants, kaffir lime leaves, grapes, roasted peanuts and the lightly sweet king of fruits come together with aplomb in this traditional Thai curry.

The tropical theme continues with the Fuji Apple and Starfruit Salad (RM23), where crispy fish satay and dried prawns impart texture and flavour.

The medley of ingredients is tossed together with a sweet and sour Thai dressing, making for a refreshing salad that’s certain to please.

You would think this Bangsar establishment specialises in Thai cooking, given that the Khao Soi – egg noodles in a coconut curry – is a daily lunch special. It’s a popular street food in the kingdom’s northern city of Chiang Mai, where chef-owner Zoe Rai spent time learning the country’s cuisine.

His culinary journey has seen him go beyond just the “Land of Smiles”, having trained and worked in Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney, and his repertoire includes Italian, Middle Eastern and Central Asian fare as well.

Zoe is also a chocolatier, and his divine truffles at the end of dinner bowled us over.

We took the Italian route with the Avocado Risotto (RM36), Lamb Ragu Pappardelle (RM48), and Cumin and Crab Gnocchi (RM58).

The risotto gets a burst of freshness from mint, basil and chilli oil. Avocado puree is added last to this creamy concoction, which is studded with sweet edamame and topped with crunchy shaved fennel.

The pappardelle stand outs with its well-seasoned shredded lamb in a peppery, tomato-based sauce that embraces broad ribbons of al dente pasta.

Leg meat is slow-roasted, and cooked down with lamb stock, tomato paste, herbs and spices.

Soft and pillowy, the skilfully made gnocchi is bathed in a thick crab gravy that has hints of cumin and curry spices.

The pasta has a higher ratio of potato to flour, resulting in smooth, tender bites. Pomegranate seeds are scattered atop, tempering the richness.

We went straight to dessert heaven with the Chocolate Truffles, Bunuelos with Creme Anglaise, and Speculoos Trifle.

Zoe learnt the art of chocolate-making in Melbourne, where he also worked as a pastry chef.

Each truffle, weighing 10g, is crafted with single-origin dark chocolate sourced from Pahang. These sublime bittersweet balls ooze out creamy chocolate at the bite.

Bunuelos are fried Spanish doughnuts, which are yeasty and firm. A vanilla custard cream is served alongside for dipping.

I’ve never liked trifle much, but the speculoos variety here is indeed memorable. It’s assembled with the popular Dutch spiced biscuit, coconut ice cream, banana and cream, and crowned with toasted coconut flakes.

The desserts are all RM18 each.

Zoe trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Adelaide, interned at chef Peter Gilmore’s Quay restaurant in Sydney, and worked at various eateries there and in Melbourne. He was also part of the team at the award-winning Nahm in Bangkok.

In Kuala Lumpur, he joined the Marriott, Ritz-Carlton and Majestic Hotels, spent two months at Dewakan and worked as a private chef before opening Zoe.

The restaurant is located at 42A, Jalan Kemuja in Bangsar Utama, Kuala Lumpur. It can be reached at 012-708-8643. – July 4, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.