IT took us a while to get to the landscape nursery that houses Lao Ma Zi in Tropicana Selatan, Petaling Jaya.

Waze had led us astray, but with the help of Google Maps, we got to the restaurant, which is hidden among foliage.

Lao Ma Zi is a fond moniker for “mother” in Cantonese, and fittingly, home-style dishes are its specialty.

Some of those that leap out from the menu are the Smoked Pork Belly, Basil Brinjal, Emperor Drunken Egg, Pa Wong Kai, Oriental Ribs and Lime Zest Steamed Fish.

Though ordinary-sounding, the Basil Brinjal is fantastic. The vegetable is fried with lots of fragrant Thai basil, garlic and dried prawns.

The brinjal is dredged through hot oil before it is fried with the other ingredients, thus preserving its brilliant purple colour.

The Emperor Drunken Egg is basically an omelette fried with strips of ginger in sesame oil, and finished in a rice-wine soup. This is a traditional confinement food for new mums.

Lao Ma Zi serves a generous portion of the ginger omelette, soaked in a frothy broth, in a clay pot.

The rice-wine soup is nice and soothing, but I would’ve liked it better if it was more aromatic and less diluted.

The Smoked Pork Belly stands out with its tender, smoky slices of meat layered with just the right amount of fat.

There is bite from the chewy skin, and creaminess from the meat. I couldn’t stop eating this with the plump braised peanuts served alongside.

The Smoky Platter listed on the menu has the same pork dish together with lychee duck. I much prefer the pork belly on its own, without sweet lychee juice getting in the way.

The Pa Wong Kai is deep-fried meaty chicken thigh with salted egg stuffed under the skin, and finished off with a sweet-and-tangy sauce.

The skin is superbly crispy. This dish is easy to polish off, and a must-order for kids.

The Oriental Ribs came recommended by the wait staff.

Sweet and sticky with a caramelised sauce, the fried ribs are topped with a sprinkling of sesame seeds. The juicy meat simply slides off the bone.

The Lime Zest Steamed Fish reminds one of tom yam.

The gravy has lime juice and slices, as well as cili padi, ginger, tomatoes and kaffir lime leaves. Hot, sour and aromatic, it is so good to drink up after finishing the fish, of which you can pick your preferred type.

The portions are rather generous, even if you opt for “small”, and the prices reasonable.

The Oriental Ribs are RM25, Smoked Pork Belly (RM28), and Emperor Drunken Egg and Basil Brinjal (RM18 each).

I would like to go back for the Mi Choy Kau Yook, Spicy Stomach Soup, Salted Egg Soft-shell Crab, and Smoked Duck sans lychees.

Lao Ma Zi is located at Lot 11, Kawasan Landskap Nursery in Jalan Tropicana Selatan, 47301, Petaling Jaya. It can be reached at 010-242-1132.

Making a reservation is recommended. – November 23, 2019.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.