I LOVE pho. I have tried this Vietnamese beef noodle dish at several restaurants in Petaling Jaya and Kuala Lumpur, but I always come back to Pho King in SS2, Petaling Jaya, for this treat.

Pho is comfort food at best, and what gives the dish served at Pho King the edge over other pho is the beef stock, which should not leave an MSG aftertaste. At Pho King, the stock has drawn all the flavours from bone marrow, oxtail, brisket, spices, aromatics, charred onions and ginger after 12 hours on the simmer.

It’s a satisfying lunch or dinner when you have Vietnamese rice noodles in this deliciously complex soup, with your choice of rare beef (Australian striploin) and beef brisket, or just rare beef, and a generous serving of beansprouts, Thai basil and culantro (Mexican coriander). Culantro is a fragrant long leaf that Pho King owner Kenneth Teo and his Vietnamese wife Hoa specially source from Vietnamese suppliers.

This Hanoi-style pho ticks all the right boxes for me in terms of the soup and quality of beef, and considering how expensive imported ingredients are these days, it’s just RM15.90 for a regular bowl of rare beef with brisket, and RM17.90 for rare beef. Don’t be afraid of “rare” beef, as the meat continues to cook in the hot soup. You can also add extra beef, oxtail, soup and pork balls for a few ringgit more.

The spicy beef noodles, Hue style, at Pho King exude aromas that make you think of assam laksa. In it are daun kesom (Vietnamese mint), shrimp paste, lemongrass and shallots – the last two from the satay sauce added into this distinctive pork-and-beef soup. It’s so yummy, especially with the slices of Vietnamese ham in it.

For those who don’t eat beef, there are several pork and chicken dishes on the menu, served with noodles or rice. Among them is the special pork noodles with pork slices, ribs, minced pork, handmade pork balls and Vietnamese ham. Pho King cooks with pork from Sanbanto, which is 100% antibiotic-free.

On the menu, too, is former US president Barack Obama’s favourite – Hanoi grilled pork noodles, or bun cha. The grilled pork slices are well-infused with a sweet, fragrant marinade, and so good eaten on its own. I have had the braised pork knuckle rice, with chunks of tender knuckle stewed with galangal, prawn paste and tapai, and served with rice, vegetables and fresh herbs.

As for appetisers, the delectable fried spring rolls are a must. You bite into crispy rice paper rolls, containing juicy pork, yam, carrot and vegetables that tumble out into your mouth. The fresh summer rolls, filled with pork, prawns, herbs and greens, come with a peanut dip you can’t get enough of.

I was wowed by the wild betel leaf beef wraps, featuring smoky and juicy minced beef wrapped in daun kadok, which are fried and topped with scallion oil and peanuts. The rolls and wraps are priced between RM8.90 and RM9.90. You can also opt for the appetiser platter, which has the various rolls and beef wraps, for RM27.90.

Now, the desserts. I enjoy the outstanding affogato at Pho King, which comes with a special vanilla ice-cream doused with home-made Vietnamese coffee liqueur (RM10.90 for two scoops). The creme caramel is so pleasing with its super smooth and creamy texture, and bittersweet caramel.

The Vietnamese coffee (RM6.90) is special, too, as it’s a blend of Vietnamese with Columbian and Brazilian coffee beans, adding complexity and a lovely aroma. I can drink it black at Pho King, as it has a pleasantly sweet aftertaste. The condensed milk for the coffee is from Vietnam as well.

Pho King is located at 153, Jalan SS2/6, Petaling Jaya. It can be reached at 018-35110-513. It is open from 12pm to 9pm daily, except Thursday. – October 6, 2018.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.