THAI duck noodles are in a class of their own, with egg noodles or Thai kway teow steeped in a dark, complex soup that is aromatic with spices and full of umami.

I happily found these at the newly opened Heng Dee by Nhom Thai in Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya.

The signature Nhom Thai duck noodles (RM18.90) are superb, cooked to a secret family recipe by the Thai chef. I checked up on the spices simmered with the duck in the broth and why it is dark.

There were hints of cinnamon, star anise, peppercorns, lengkuas and garlic, and a light sweetness from palm sugar in the thick broth.

The dark brown colour came from soy sauce, and of course from the duck cooked with it.

There is a round chunk of radish in the thick soup too.

A tender duck drumstick is laid over the noodles, topped with fresh coriander and fried garlic, and also in the soup are bean sprouts.

The duck noodles are delicious, eaten with a garlicky, vinegar chilli sauce. You can also add another duck drumstick (RM4.80) and even chicken blood in the duck soup.

The kway teow tom yam (RM17.90) at Heng Dee comes in a clear pork soup with fragrant and subtly tart tom yam flavours (from lemongrass, kaffir lime, fish sauce and chilli). In it are pork balls and minced pork patties.

In appearance, the point of difference from the Thai pork noodles are the chilli flakes.

The Thai pork noodles (RM17.90) were so good in the very tasty, well-cooked broth. It came with flavourful pork balls and minced pork patties and a small spoonful of deep-fried dried prawns.

There were lots of lard crispies sprinkled on top, giving it a smoky lift and enjoyable bites.

I have a weakness for Goong Ob Woon Sen, or glass noodles with tiger prawns in a claypot.

At Heng Dee, I turned up bruised coriander roots and lengkuas, garlic chunks and peppercorns at the bottom of the claypot and together with the prawns infused the moist noodles with their delicious aromas and flavours.

I also liked the scent of the fresh Chinese celery atop the glass noodles too (RM50).

Noodles seem to be the chef’s forte here. On another visit we enjoyed a special order of tom yum seafood noodles.

Small udang galah, squid, fish, roast pork and pork patties were in the hot, sour and sweet tom yum soup. A couple of raw eggs were added last to the bubbling soup.

The noodles were lovely and al dente in the scrumptious soup.

Heng Dee also offers some stir-fried dishes with rice such as Pad Ka Prow Pla Muerk (squid), Pad Ka Prow Ped or duck meat fried with basil leaves and pork in a similar style. There’s also seafood barbecue with river prawns, mud crabs and squid.

Dessert for us was Tab Tim Krob or Red Ruby (RM7.50) of water chestnut in coconut cream and palm sugar, and some pretty floral coconut jelly (RM3.50).

Heng Dee is at 16 Jalan SS21/35, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, tel: 03-7733 6385. – October 1, 2022.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.