THE Signature Dimsum Trilogy showcased some of the bold flavours that are being introduced in the new menu at Yun House at Four Seasons.

First, the fish maw dumpling with cordyceps flower in a bamboo charcoal skin, topped with a thick slice of fish maw, touched with black garlic, made for smooth, springy and tasty bites.

I was drawn to the pink deep-fried yam puff with barbecued duck. I loved the texture, from the crispy outside into the creamy joy of yam unfolding within it the moist filling of barbecued duck.

The crispy rice vermicelli with foie gras and oyster was yet another venture into new flavours and textures.

The dimsum was deep-fried, wrapped in vermicelli, and I sank my teeth into the crunchy meat and prawn, tasting the foie gras and Shajing oyster. It sat on a creamy, citrusy sauce, scented with ginger lily.

Prawn toast with caviar and mini beef steak with black vinegar seemed an odd couple on the dish. But they can be ordered separately.

The crispy prawn toast delivers springy chopped prawns within, with its crispy skin dusted with salted egg yolk.

The mini beef steak was not all that mini. The meat was absolutely tender, infused with the peppery tones of the vinegar sauce which complemented it well, giving a tart balance to its richness.

Hot and sour soup with sea scallops, tofu and crispy Alaskan crab meat wonton had the right tartness and chilli pepper heat.

Strips of bamboo shoot, wood fungus and omelette and sweet scallops made this a meal in itself, not forgetting the big fried wonton filled with Alaskan crab.

Steamed black cod with chopped chilli stood out for its lush, creamy and sweet flesh which gelled perfectly with the chilli in a saltish, a little tart sauce. It cuts the richness of the fish.

Braised HK ee foo noodles with wild mushrooms and black truffle paste was flavourful.

I liked the texture of the noodles, which were lightly touched by the truffle paste in the sauce, and tasted even better with the mushrooms in it.

Dessert was yin yang black sesame ice-cream with chilled almond milk. There were crunchy toasted nuts beneath the ice-cream and I absolutely loved the almond milk it was sitting on, and I could slurp up at the end of it.

As the Mooncake Festival is on September 17, we had a tasting of snow skin mooncakes by Yun House.

They were Musang King durian, black truffle lotus seed paste with pine nuts and honey kelutut, bird’s nest with black sesame and almond, and white lotus seed paste with seaweed, black sugar and macadamia nuts.

The Musang King durian had the most delicate snow skin, with lightly sweet aromatic durian paste within. I would list it among the best durian mooncakes I have had.

The white lotus seed paste with seaweed, black sugar and macadamia nuts was both sweet and a little savoury because of the seaweed, while the bird’s nest with black sesame was rather generous with the bird’s nest.

Of course, there are the baked varieties of lotus seed paste with single yolk, pandan lotus seed paste with yolk, red bean paste with almond flakes and traditional mixed nuts.

The Michelin Select Yun House is at Four Seasons Hotel, 145 Jalan Ampang. Call 03 2382 8640, for enquiries. – August 31, 2024.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.