THE entrance to Sarastro KL is hidden behind a bookshelf, setting the tone for its library-themed décor that begins with the Millenium Lounge.

We arrived for dinner but were first treated to a performance by the bartender in the lounge, who artfully poured and shook two cocktails amidst a cloud of icy smoke.

We sipped on Cherry in Martini and Purple Rain in the restaurant, which exudes a 1970s vibe, facing a piano and other musical instruments on a stage for performances on Thursday to Saturday.

Our dinner included nine appetisers, one salad, three main courses, and three desserts for the five of us.

We started with crispy whitebait tossed with togarashi (a Japanese spice blend) and deep-fried, paired with lightly spicy aji verde, a Peruvian cilantro sauce. Another standout was the deep-fried portobello fries, served with whole grain mustard aioli and a balsamic drizzle.

Among the more substantial appetisers, the baby octopus sauteed and sprinkled with chilli flakes, bonito, and seaweed strips stood out with their touch of sweetness and chilli heat.

The Sriracha chicken boxing made for sweet and spicy bites. The deep-fried chicken drumettes were tossed in Thai chilli sauce, dried chillies, curry leaves, and a drizzle of honey.

Garlic prawns, sauteed with smoked paprika and finished with lemon juice and Italian chilli flakes, turned out well with balanced flavours. Slices of smoked duck breast, lightly torched and served on a bed of shiitake slices and edamame, were tender and paired well with the vegetables.

The deep-fried soft shell crabs with a Vietnamese dip were ordinary, while the Spanish meatballs with herbed tomato sauce and goat cheese were soft and doughy. The seafood croquette tasted like a fish cake.

Theokra Thai salad was fresh and welcoming, featuring a combination of sautéed okra, white pearl corn, lettuce, and beef bacon tossed in a tangy Thai dressing, with a sprinkling of chopped bunga kantan for a fragrant aroma.

The best of the four main courses we chose was the lamb rack, served with truffle mash and creamy aioli. The lamb, seared to medium, was juicy and tender, well paired with the flavourful aioli and the truffle mashed potatoes.

The chicken piemontese, featuring chicken breast stuffed with sundried tomato pesto and mozzarella cheese, crumbled and deep-fried, fell a little short in flavour. It could have been better with cheddar added to the mozzarella for a saltier lift. The chicken was served with truffle angel hair.

Our medium-rare Miyazaki wagyu tenderloin was perfect without any embellishments. It didn’t need the rather sharp yuzu chimichurri dip, as the arugula salad with tomato and goat cheese sufficed.

The soft shell crab sambal linguine, tossed in a hot and pungent sambal oelek with mushrooms, was not my favourite.

We all loved the rich and fudgy chocolate brownie, its sweetness tempered with a little sea salt. However, the churros topped with cinnamon icing and served with a white chocolate dip were a bit limp.

The sago mango panna cotta was a bit odd with the sago, but the mango complemented it well.

Sarastro KL has two private rooms, one for dining and the other for karaoke. It is located in Tribeca Serviced Hotel, Jalan Imbi. Call  03-2727 2280 or 014-327 3889, for enquiries. It opens at 5pm and closes on Sunday. – July 6, 2024.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.