PLAYTE embraces an indulgent, cosy vibe in its new home in Plaza Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.

Brendon Chen, chef and co-owner, is in his element here, weaving his Asian flair into modern European cuisine.

Firstly, Unagi & Foie Gras crown a light mini doughnut; spread with apricot miso and topped with slivers of hazelnuts. Altogether they make rich, tart and nutty bites, touching first the grilled eel, then the knobs of foie gras (RM13 each).

The Italian Buratta opens up your palate. There is tomato jam underneath the burrata, which is ringed with heritage tomatoes, fresh and dried strawberries and tarragon. Thai basil oil, kombu and vinegar dressing complete this splendid ensemble, layered with flavours.

I love the sweet tomato jam melding with the mild cheese, then more sweetness from strawberries and tomatoes, balanced with a little tartness from the dressing. I would be so delighted to have just this burrata (RM52) as a meal.

Our dinner continues with more of these “smaller” plates on the menu. They are really quite big sharing portions.

Cold Capellini with Amaebi, Hokkaido scallop and Ikura pairs the fresh sweetness of amaebi (sweet shrimps) and Hokkaido scallop, and seaweed.

The fine pasta is tossed with a little truffle oil, vinegar and a smidgen of wasabi. It’s a little tart, sweet and faintly hot, making you come back for more (RM88). It’s a portion enough for two or even three.

The caramelised cauliflower with Marmite glaze, cauliflower puree, and raisin is a textural delight.

My favourite vegetable is cooked to perfection, with the cauliflower puree nestled between the soft florets.

Deep-fried and crispy cauliflower flakes are on top; fermented mushroom marmite imbues the vegetable with deep, sweet flavours. It’s so delicious, savouring the cauliflower in different ways in one dish (RM28).

Outstanding too is the 7 Days Aged Duck with date, purple carrot and radicchio. The grilled duck has the crispiest golden skin, descending to juicy and tender meat. 

Chen told me the duck had been brined, hence its juiciness. Duck jus is sweetened with carrot juice, dehydrated purple carrot is rehydrated in the same juice. 

Together with date puree, goji berries, pickled onions and radicchio, the duck offers different bites with delicious results (RM78).

I like how the lamb is put together in the Binchotan grilled Australian lamb rack with anchovies’ emulsion and lamb jus. 

A little fu yue (fermented bean curd) has been brushed on the meat before the grilling, and its flavour is infused in the smoky lamb. 

Add the creamy, salty and smoky anchovies’ emulsion, grilled vegetables like zucchini and sugar snaps and I’m sold. Cucumber pickles cut the richness of the meat (RM140).

It’s a crunchy, nutty dessert in the caramel ice cream, brown butter cake, chocolate ganache and hazelnut praline. The toffee-like praline with hazelnuts is covered with sherry vinegar gel that gives it a tart lift, melding with the rich brown butter cake.

There is the superb earl grey ice cream, black rice pudding and almond milk panna cotta. I can taste the earl grey in the lovely ice cream, and the panna cotta is expectedly shivery smooth. The desserts are RM28 each.

The new Playte has been opened only two months. It’s open for dinner now but lunch will soon be served. 

Chen trained at Le Cordon Bleu in London and has worked in top restaurants in Taipei and Kuala Lumpur. 

Playte is at no. 9-4, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 011-2698 5562. – July 16, 2022.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.