WE have passed by The Swimming Cow several times, wondering about its name, but never ventured in. Then I had confirmation from a friend whose palate I trust, that she had tried some of the lunch specials and liked them.

From the Classic Bowls (with rice) on the lunch menu we ordered Angus Gyudon and Salmon Mentaiko. I would have loved to have the ox tongue, too, but it was sold out. We opted for the Wagyu Char Siew Brisket (RM38), listed under the Premium Bowls. 

I had heard so much about its handmade pasta, so the Pappardelle Beef Ragu (RM35) was a must.

At the time of ordering two weeks ago, the two Premium Bowls were RM25 each with a canned drink, otherwise it would have been RM28 each. Angus Gyudon hit the spot.

Topping the rice was sous vide Angus beef that had been sliced and sautéed with caramelised onions and finished with a braising sauce. Garlic chips and a 63-degree SV egg completed it.

It was a beefy bowl of rice, standing out with complex flavours in the beef, its sweet sauce drizzling down into the rice. The runny sous vide egg was a satisfying touch.

Salmon Mentaiko has been grilled with a tobiko mayo topping on it, together with crispy salmon skin, edamame, SV egg, radish pickles, seaweed strips and a slice of lemon. It’s a busy bowl, made for those who prefer fish to beef or chicken.

The star of our lunch was surely the Pappardelle Beef Ragu. The wide pasta had each strip blanketed with a heavy marinara sauce laden with beef mince. The chef had nailed the flavours, balancing sweetness with a little tartness. The pappardelle was a textural delight, smooth and springy to the bite.

The pasta is made from a handmade semolina dough that is rolled out upon order. “It has gone through months of testing to finally find a pasta that is authentic Italian yet fits our Malaysian taste buds,” said David Mo, owner of The Swimming Cow, whom I contacted later.

No wonder it’s one of its bestsellers. I have also read rave reviews of its Fettuccine Truffle Mushroom.

Wagyu Char Siew Brisket Don turned out exceptional too. The char siew was smoky, sweet and delicious. The MB8 Wagyu brisket had been immersed in a char siew marination, then sous vide for 36 hours before being slow-roasted in the oven to add char to the meat, and for a smoky flavour.

It tasted exactly like char siew, its dark, glistening sauce touching the sticky grains of rice. A flavoured ramen egg with a half runny yolk and cucumber strips accompanied it.

Why the name The Swimming Cow? I asked David. “It’s because of the sous vide cooking technique we use to prepare most of our dishes.” Sous vide means “‘in vacuum”.

The meat or vegetables (like potato) are sealed in vacuum packs and dropped into a water container with a controlled temperature, likened to “going for a swim”. “This is how we prepare most of our protein focusing on steaks at The Swimming Cow.”

Its food concept centres on fusion, casual dining. “We have handmade pasta which is Italian, sous vide which is French and our rice bowls are Japanese-inspired. Soon we will have sourdough sandwiches.”

Steaks, of course, are its signature dishes, such as Australian Wagyu MB6 Striploin and SV Australian Wagyu Tomahawk, and its SV Chicken Cordon Bleu.

Recommended dishes for dinner include Miso Brinjal With Truffle and Prawn Gambas for starters, with steaks like 200 Days Angus Sirloin Steak and Wagyu MB6 Sirloin Steak or pasta as the main dishes.

The Swimming Cow is celebrating its anniversary this month and till the end August, there will be a 20% discount on total bills (minimum order RM50). The restaurant is at 29, SS20/11, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. It is pork-free. Contact 017-207 0783 for takeaways or delivery. – August 7, 2021.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.