IT begins for us with the raw snapper with Thai basil and calamansi dressing. Slices of the fish are twirled into a rose sitting on a daikon with winter melon jam beneath (RM32).

Dots of Thai basil oil on calamansi surround the pink “rose”. Stirred, a tart spurt is soothed by sweet jam, then refreshed by daikon, bringing balance to the firm, fresh snapper sashimi.

It’s love at first bite with the beef tongue with XO sauce, salsa verde and cured yolk (RM38). Its soft velvety texture and juicy bursts of flavour make it so delightful.

It comes from hours of braising in a master stock with spices. A delicious XO sauce, egg yolk cured with salt, a sweet pickled onion and salsa verde of coriander, green onion, garlic and green chilli complete this amazing beef tongue.

The cabbage roll with prawn mousse (RM28) bursts with prawny sweetness, balanced with Asian vierge (virgin) sauce of grapefruit juice, tomato, cilantro, Thai basil and kaffir lime.

Delicious, familiar flavours abound in the tiger prawn, homemade noodles, prawn head sauce and sambal. The noodles, slippery smooth and al dente, are a cross between Chinese pan mee and Italian pappardelle.

A rich stock with deep flavours, reduced from simmering prawn heads with spices and vegetables for a day, embraces the noodles. It’s like lobster bisque, with a tart lift from the sambal. Two tiger prawns seared in olive oil top the noodles, which I love.

The prawn noodles (RM56) are a firm favourite with Playte’s diners, according to head chef and part owner Brendon Chen. He trained at Le Cordon Bleu in London and has worked in top restaurants in Taipei and Kuala Lumpur.  Brendon harnesses local herbs and ingredients for unique accents in his food.

A skilful expression of this is in his angus striploin with laksa leaves, salt baked jicama and shiitake (RM108, 200g). A blend of laksa leaves or daun kesom and ulam raja make up the sauce (like a pesto) for the striploin, together with a drizzle of beef jus.

It’s subtly fragrant, and a great complement to the meat. I didn’t realise that a salt baked young jicama or sengkuang would taste so good.  Baking softens it, while still retaining its crunch, and it’s sweet and juicy.

Coconut gelato with passionfruit curd, palm sugar syrup and pumpkin (RM25) were just lovely. The light gelato was a flavour bomb with the tart and sweet passionfruit curd. Pumpkin cake, seeds and diced pumpkin brought it all together.

Soy ice cream with longan granite, kaffir lime leaves and milk cake (RM23) were our other dessert. The aroma of fresh soy milk came through in the creamy ice cream, well paired with the longan granite with a fragrant lift from kaffir lime leaf.

Playte is about affordable fine dining in a friendly, contemporary space.

Other dishes to take note of are beef tartare with smoked oil, cured coconut and fried shallots (RM38), lamb loin, fillet and belly, harissa, Szechuan pepper oil and king oyster mushroom (RM86) and chicken with Shaoxing beurre blanc, clams and braised daikon (RM42).

Playte is located at G.01, Republik, 1 Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. Call 011-2698 5562 for reservations. It’s closed on Sundays.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.