WE took to the Rum, Raisin, Rum! and Chiffle at Pun’s last Sunday, also noting the Berry Naise and Espres-so Self! – some of the awesome ice creams at this Petaling Jaya establishment.

Chef-owner Euwie Tan is, as expected, a punny sort of guy. His other sweet creations include Let the Man-Go (mango, of course) and This is the Last Straw, Barry! (strawberry, get it?).

Pun’s is an ice cream, burgers, and fried chicken and waffles kind of place, with fun injected into pretty much everything. Its logo, an ice cream-eating blue monster called Pun Itey (yeti spelled backwards), appears on the eatery’s signboard and is stamped on its burger buns.

Nobody’s ever too old for a burger, especially one named the P-Mash Burger (RM18).

The patty is made with hand-cut striploin instead of minced beef, and “hand thrown” as is done when making fish balls, drawing out the “glue” from the protein. This way, the meat holds together well, retaining its texture and juices.

A bonus is that the patty, which has very little fat unlike most others, is cooked to a medium rare. It joins cheese, onion relish, cucumber pickles, tomato sauce and grain mustard between substantial milk buns.

This is a burger made with skill, showcasing the beef, and we loved every bit of it.

Sharing a name with the ice cream, the Chiffle (RM22) comprises two pieces of fried chicken on a waffle, doused with maple syrup.

The sweet syrup strikes a delicious balance with the savoury, crunchy chicken. Cayenne, paprika, and onion and garlic powder are among the herbs and spices in the batter coating the juicy meat.

Fluffy with crispy edges and the perfect thickness, the waffle is a brilliant partner to the chicken.

The Chiffle ice cream (RM8 per scoop), meanwhile, has fried chicken batter, waffle bits and maple syrup swirled in a vanilla base.

“We don’t like to waste, so we usually use leftovers or by-products to make something new,” said Tan.

Chek Ur Tempeh-Ture (RM15) may be a timely reminder, but at Pun’s, it’s a burger for those who eschew meat. This has two thick pieces of tempeh and a slice of pineapple drenched in a tomato-chilli sauce.

I found it too salty and the flavours overpowering. Personally, I’d stick to the beef and chicken varieties, which are what they do best here.

The Curly Crisps (RM7) are super-thin fries sprinkled with shaved parmesan. Be warned, these are addictive!

Equally moreish are the Truffle Tots (RM15), where fried potato cubes are drizzled with truffle oil and dusted with parmesan.

Tan is an expert at fine-tuning flavours, delivering the sublime with a blend of unusual ingredients, both sweet and savoury. He comes up with a unique sundae that’s served every, well, Sunday, and the Special Sundae (RM36) we had on our visit indeed showcases his genius.

It has vanilla ice cream, dehydrated caviar cake, caviar from T’lur (a local brand hailing from Tg Malim), candied pistachios and bone-marrow caramel. This is a sundae on a higher plane.

“Basically, the caviar goes with all the elements, not the other way around. I also like using rendered animal fat to make caramel because it gives a bolder flavour and nicer texture,” said the chef.

On his approach to ice cream, Tan said: “We enjoy the freedom of doing what we like, and hopefully, everyone likes it, too.

“Rum raisin is our bestseller, something we made because it’s my father’s favourite. Others, like the Chiffle, were for us to take something we’re already known for and turn it into an ice cream.”

The fermented berries in the Berry Naise and s’mores are a homage to Tan’s mentor, Matt Orlando of Amass who is one of Copenhagen’s top chefs. Tan has also worked at some of the leading restaurants in London, Paris, Tokyo, San Francisco and Barcelona.

At Pun’s, the philosophy is to do things beyond the norm in a “seriously fun” way.

“Our menu changes every month. Ideally, we want customers to come back for the new menu, even if it’s just a subtle change,” added Tan.

Pun’s is located at 64, Jalan SS22/25 in Damansara Jaya, PJ. It can be reached at 018-913-1818. – July 11, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.