Bakes so good, they brioche Universal laws


Eu Hooi-Khaw

Generously topped with ricotta and avocado, and finished off with olive oil, sea salt and gula melaka, Universal Bakehouse shows how a great tartine is done. – April 25, 2020.

IN the initial weeks of the movement-control order (MCO), I was told, pastries and cakes topped the list of takeaways as many opted to cook “real food” at home.

If the reverse is true now, that people are ordering more proper meals instead, it’s not evident at Universal Bakehouse in Damansara Kim.

On a trip there last week, I saw bags and bags of sourdough bread, pastries and cakes waiting to be collected. At 10am, the doughnuts that a friend had been raving about were all gone!

I did get plain and cinnamon doughnuts two days later, after placing an order in advance.

The cinnamon (left) and plain doughnuts sell out fast, so it’s best to order ahead. – April 25, 2020.

These doughnuts are round, not ring, much like the traditional Dutch oliebollen (oil balls). Dusted with sugar, they are as soft and fluffy as a pillow.

Sweet and salty, the cinnamon doughnut (RM5) stands out.

Universal Bakehouse is serious about its breads – sourdough, foccacia and brioche – and has a delightful array of cakes, cookies, quiches and, of course, doughnuts as well.

Universal Bakehouse’s cookies, scones and cakes will surely lift spirits at home as we hunker down for another two weeks or so of the MCO. – April 25, 2020.

Before the MCO, you could watch the magic happen in the cafe’s baking space.

On a previous visit, we had a tartine – a scrumptious open-faced sourdough sandwich topped with ricotta and avocado, drizzled with olive oil, and sprinkled with sea salt and gula melaka.

A rather unusual pairing, but ikura roe goes swimmingly with sourdough and French butter. – April 25, 2020.

We also had a sourdough toast served with French butter and ikura roe. A rather quirky way of having this kind of bread, but it works!

You can take home a freshly baked sourdough loaf, but there’s no slicing service at the moment, so it may be hard work if you don’t have a bread knife.

Take your pick from Universal Bakehouse’s selection of sourdough loaves – plain, with fruit, with olives and nuts, or country-style. – April 25, 2020.

The plain sourdough (RM11) is good as is, and even better when toasted. Other options are the sourdough with apple (RM13), with olives and walnuts (RM18), and country sourdough (RM14).

I took home a brioche loaf (RM15) on my next visit, along with a small tub of seaweed butter (RM6).

Luscious seaweed butter on brioche takes things to another level. – April 25, 2020.

The brioche is light and buttery, and I loved it with the awesome seaweed spread. Universal Bakehouse uses good French butter, and the product speaks for itself. I can’t wait to turn the remaining brioche into French toast.

This bakery is also the place for scones that don’t gum your teeth, or taste dry and floury.

Light and buttery, the brioche is perfect for making French toast. – April 25, 2020.

On the contrary, the scone (RM7) is crusty and crumbly, perfect with the butter and strawberry conserve that come with it. I popped it into the oven before tucking in.

The Calamansi Lime Cake (RM7) was a little dry and hard, but heating it up made it crusty and buttery, accentuating its citrusy notes.

The unassuming Calamansi Lime Cake bursts with citrusy notes. This benefits from a little heating up before you dig in. – April 25, 2020.

Other tea-time treats include gluten-free brownies, chocolate chip cookies, Banana Tin Cake, and Carrot and Walnut Cake.

Then there’s the baked Curry Potato and Quail’s Egg pastry that resembles a Cornish pasty, with its filling of soft and spicy potato, studded with two quail’s eggs, bursting through the thin crust.

The Curry Potato and Quail’s Egg is the pastry of choice for those seeking a savoury treat. – April 25, 2020.

Universal Bakehouse is located at 21, Jalan SS20/11, Damansara Kim in Petaling Jaya. It opens at 9am, and is closed on Monday and Thursday.

Place your orders via WhatsApp at 011-3332-7581. The takeaway menu is posted on the cafe’s Facebook page. – April 25, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.


Sign up or sign in here to comment.


Comments