IT’S just as well that Ho Li Chow in Damansara Kim is for me only a five-minute drive away.

Before the movement-control order (MCO), I frequented this Penang Nyonya restaurant for my favourite Lemak Laksa, Lam Meen, Bihun Siam and Pie Tee for lunch. Come dinner time, it would be the Asam Pedas Fish, Kerabu Pucuk Paku, Asam Prawns, Hong Bak, or Braised Pork with Coriander, and other dishes.

Ho Li Chow has takeaway and delivery services during the MCO, much to the relief of many regulars. The restriction order is daunting for a lot of restaurant owners, whose earnings have shrunk substantially even if they cater to takeaways and deliveries.

I’ve popped by to pick up my orders of Lemak Laksa, Tau Yew Bak, or Braised Pork in Soy Sauce, Asam Pedas Fish, Bihun Siam, and most recently, the fabulous Har Meen, or Prawn Noodles.

The owner, fondly known as Auntie Sue, hails from Taiping, and her scrumptious cooking has drawn a strong crowd since the eatery opened three years ago.

Ho Li Chow accepts orders two days in advance for customers who want something special. I was lucky to get the Har Meen after a regular customer placed a big order for it.

The prawn stock, made by steeping fried prawn shells, prawn roe, pork bones and pork, is so flavourful. The noodles are topped with two large prawns, kangkung, sliced pork and a dollop of fried sambal.

Simply delicious – it’s the best bowl of prawn noodles I’ve had in a long time.

The Bihun Siam (RM15) is chock-full of ingredients. Rice noodles are well mixed with fresh and dried prawns, chives, bean sprouts, bean curd and sambal. Calamansi juice perks it up.

I had senangin in the Asam Pedas Fish, which is expectedly hot and sour, with the fragrant bursts of daun kesom. Auntie Sue also cooks this dish with garoupa.

You can opt for her popular Indian-Style Fish Head Curry and Asam Fish Head Curry, too. The price ranges from RM32 to RM48, depending on the type of fish used.

The Tau Yew Bak can be ordered on its own or as part of a rice set with ju hu char, or braised bangkuang with cuttlefish, and sambal belacan. I found the set (RM15) complete, adding only fresh romaine lettuce to wrap up the ju hu char with sambal.

The tender pork sits in a lightly sweet sauce, with hints of star anise and cinnamon. It makes a satisfying meal.

I deeply adore Ho Li Chow’s Lemak Laksa – aromatic lemak curry with a myriad of ingredients, lifted with calamansi juice and tempered with a dark and sweet shrimp paste. It’s crowned with the meat of half a kembong fish.

Then, there’s the Lam Meen, or noodles traditionally served on birthdays. The broth is the result of simmering prawn shells, pork bones and toasted flat sole, and the noodles are topped with pork slices, prawns, omelette strips, fried shallots and sambal belacan.

All the noodle dishes are available for takeaway daily, as well as the Nasi Lemak Set with Nyonya Chicken or Lemak Pork Curry (RM15), Acar Fish Set, Fried Rice, and desserts like Bubur Cha Cha (RM8), Pulut Hitam and Mak Chok (RM7).

I also got a packet of lovely Kuih Talam (RM5 for four pieces) when I was there.

Call 03-7710-4088 to place your orders, advisably two days ahead. Delivery is available to areas in Bandar Utama, Damansara Jaya, Damansara Kim and Taman Tun Dr Ismail.

Ho Li Chow is located at 40, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya. – April 11, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.