WE are always on the lookout for a Japanese restaurant that is easy on the wallet but serves quality food.

The three Japanese restaurants owned and run by Malaysian chefs Steve Chua and Edmund Chong fit the bill.

They are: Two Chefs Lab in Bandar Mahkota, Cheras, Buri by Two Chefs at Bukit Jalil City, and the newly opened Mitsu by Two Chefs at Millerz Square in Old Klang Road, all located in Kuala Lumpur.

For Mitsu, which is just two months old, affordable and good Japanese cuisine is its mainstay.

While both chefs are equally at home with both Japanese raw and cooked food, this time chef Steve does the cooking and has introduced yakitori in Mitsu, while chef Edmund does the perfect turn for raw fish and seafood as in sashimi and sushi and other dishes.

We had a refreshing start with a tuna avocado tartare, which had diced raw tuna and avocado tossed together with a wasabi mayonnaise dressing (RM21).

Then there was the hamachi carpaccio, which delivered thin slices of yellowtail sashimi drizzled with homemade yuzu truffle shoyu, and served with a topping of arugula.

The fish was springy and velvety, and an absolute delight with the shoyu sauce (RM25). 

We moved on to a spicy salmon bruschetta, which had a heap of chopped salmon marinated with spices sitting atop focaccia bread. The salmon was tasty and tingly and went well with the focaccia (RM18). 

Foie gras chawan mushi, the stuff that you get in some fine dining Japanese restaurants, was excellent here. There were generous pieces of foie gras topping the smooth and delicate egg custard (RM19). 

We savoured the Mitsu signature cold pasta, which served a roll of angel hair with a topping of uni, shrimp and caviar (RM42).

We thought the portion of pasta in a little ponzu sauce was ample and fed the four of us. The topping of uni or sea urchin was generous, as was the caviar.

I rather enjoyed the hot food in the form of yakitori that followed. I liked the soft texture of the minced pork with chicken and Japanese yam on a stick and a slice of beef rolled up with enoki yielded some sweet juicy bites.

Grilled chicken wings, olive pork with asparagus, sweet corn and shiitake mushrooms made up a diverse platter that should please those looking for high-protein nibbles.

They range from RM12 for beef and pork, to RM7 for the chicken thigh and wings.

I’m always drawn to rice as in gyu don (RM44) and engawa don (RM58) dishes on the menu.

Mitsu’s gyu don had slices of peppery grilled beef with a little teriyaki sauce over a bowl of rice, together with an onsen kenkori egg and some pickles.

Truffled oil was the final touch to this delicious bowl of beef rice with the wobbly egg.

I love engawa, the meaty fin of the flounder. The flesh is so rich, fatty and creamy. Lightly grilled and laid over rice, it made a splendid meal. Sweet tamago and ginger were the perfect accompaniments.

We ended our late lunch with a Mitsu signature platter of sushi with scallops, sweet prawn and engawa.

Chef Steve was among 10 finalists in the World Cup Sushi Tokyo in 2018. He was also the champion of the Global Sushi Academy Malaysia in 2017.

He and partner Chef Edmund had met and worked in fine Japanese restaurants in Singapore for 15 years before starting their own.

Both chefs have introduced local flavours in their Japanese food, so look out for a nasi lemak maki!

Mitsu by Two Chefs is at Block D, 01-10 Millerz Square, Megan Legasi, 357, Jalan Klang Lama, 58000 Kuala Lumpur. Call 03-2779 2534 for enquiries. – December 30, 2023.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.