AT 2am every Sunday, Rogayah Ali starts preparing nasi kandar to be sold on the front porch of her double-storey terrace house in USJ 11, Subang Jaya.

By 6.15am, Rogayah has set up tables and chairs on her front porch and laid out all the freshly-cooked dishes.

Nasi kandar is a popular northern Malaysian dish, which originates from Penang. It is a meal of steamed rice that can be plain or mildly flavoured, and served with a variety of curries and side dishes.

Rogayah’s menu usually has fish curry, beef, spicy prawns, brinjals, okras, boiled eggs and many others to greet customers arriving after performing their subuh prayers.

“My customers come early after subuh; by 6.30am they will be here,” Rogayah told The Malaysian Insight.

Rogayah’s interesting choice for a nasi kandar stall came about 15 years ago when her parents could no longer continue running their restaurant in SS13 Subang Jaya due to difficulties in hiring foreign workers.

Loyal customers appealed to her parents – Ali and Rashidah – to continue selling their nasi kandar from home.

Since then, Rogayah’s family has not looked back.

Her nasi kandar business – which goes by many names including but not limited to “Pak Ali”, “Warung Seri Pinang” and “Nasi Kandar Gayah” – may only be open for three hours on Sunday mornings, but Rogayah has a steady stream of customers all the same.

“I only open the stall once a week so there is exclusivity, but if there are those who want it on other days, they can place orders,” said the 62-year-old, who also offers catering services for various Penang delicacies.

“My customers know of my nasi kandar by word of mouth, and some have eaten here since they were young.”

‘Best thing ever’

Leonard Tan, 50, has been a loyal customer of Rogayah’s family business for almost 30 years.

“If there are those who come back here even after 30 years, what would you think of the food here?

“Wouldn’t you think this is the best thing that has ever happened in the world?” said Tan.

Army veteran Kung Boon Chin, 69, said the nasi kandar made by Rogayah’s parents was unique.

“I don’t know how she does it. Maybe she does it herself, blends the ingredients herself. Therefore, her nasi kandar tastes different,” said Kung.

Many of her customers know of her nasi kandar from the days when her parents still lived in Penang and ran a nasi kandar restaurant there.

“I knew Pak Ali (Rogayah’s father) from Penang when he had a business behind the Immigration office. So, it has been 40 years that I have been enjoying their family’s cooking,” said 67-year-old Mustapha Kamal Abdul Rahman.

“The taste of Nasi Kandar Pak Ali is more suited to Penang’s taste, unlike other nasi kandar.”

Mohd Hatta, 62, said he would never miss a chance to eat at Rogayah’s every Sunday.

“The taste really suits me. The curry at mamak restaurants would be too thick, but here, it’s just nice and suits our taste,” he said.

However, those hoping to indulge in the sumptuous dish have to be quick about it. The Malaysian Insight found that customers who arrived after 9.30am usually returned home disappointed as the food had run out.

Passing on the baton

Rogayah said she was willing to teach those who wanted to learn her family’s recipe, as long as they have the passion and patience to do so.

“My nieces and nephews, they all do not want to learn. They are not willing to.

“They see me waking up at 2am to prepare it and they say there is no need to do it.

“I am worried as well if no one takes over the family business when I am no longer around.

“But my niece’s husband is keen on learning. He likes to eat. Although he is Kelantanese, he is interested in learning our Penang recipe,” said Rogayah.

She insists that there is no real secret to the taste of her food, except patience, heart and passion.

“Anyone can do it. It is not difficult, but they must have passion and patience, and prioritise cleanliness.

“There are no secrets in my family’s recipe. I am prepared to share it with anyone.” – November 4, 2017.