CHINESE Palace Restaurant was for us a new, happy place to dine in on the seventh day of Chinese New Year.

Tucked in a corner of the Chinese Assembly Hall in Kuala Lumpur, the restaurant, decked out in festive finery, is just a couple of months old.

Of course, the salmon yee sang was a must for “everyone’s birthday” on that day, with auspicious wishes uttered as raw salmon, crackers, peanut oil and a strawberry sauce were poured over the fruit and vegetable platter. Then all were tossed up with gusto.

The lightly sweet, tangy strawberry sauce for the yee sang bore the fine, inimitable touch of master chef Frankie Woo, who now heads the restaurant.

He has been head chef in five-star hotel restaurants in Malaysia and Singapore, and managed his own – Gu Yu Tien.

We decided on braised beef brisket with radish in claypot, Shanghainese-style smoked fish fillets and oven-baked iberico pork ribs as the main dishes for our lunch, with a variety of dim sum for starters.

The beef brisket with radish, garnished with fresh Chinese celery, was superb. The perfectly braised beef was tender and well-infused with the mellow flavours of the sauce.

We turned up juicy radish in the claypot and smooth gelatinous beef tendon that was so delicious.

I enjoyed the Shanghainese-style smoked fish fillets, which tasted like well-made char siu.

The fish fillets had a crispy skin and firm texture, and were moist and glistening in a thick, sticky and sweet sauce with a hint of spices.

We also liked the oven-baked iberico ribs, served with a piquant green salad.

The subtly spiced meat (with cumin among it), tore off easily from the bone. A garlicky chilli dip complemented the meat well.

It’s hard to restrain yourself when presented with a wide dim sum menu.

The wok-fried radish cake with XO sauce was a winner – spicy and aromatic, fried with egg, bean sprouts and chives. It was served with a chilli oil dip.

The steamed chicken claws with chilli and black bean sauce were zesty and tasty.

I liked the siu mai with pork, shrimp and mushroom, for the springy texture and flavour. The crispy bean curd roll was delicious, with chunks of prawns as its filling.

Crispy rice roll (char leong) was delectable. It had soft cheong fun wrapped round yau char kway and prawns. 

I loved the bite. The smooth rice roll giving way to crispy cruller and sweet chunky prawn filling. The barbecued char siu buns spilled out a luscious, smoky sweet meat filling.

Only three dim sum varieties didn’t pass muster – the ham sui kok (deep-fried puffs), beef balls and har kaw or prawn dumpling, which should have been more delicate.

The puffs had a runny meat and vegetable filling, while the beef balls, though bouncy, were quite tasteless.

Chinese Palace Restaurant is at No. 1 Jalan Maharajalela, Kampung Attap, Kuala Lumpur. Call 016-833 6228 for enquiries. – February 4, 2023.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.