From fish and chips to nasi ulam, a flavourful trip at Table & Apron


Eu Hooi-Khaw

The catfish is lightly coated in buckwheat batter and deep-fried, resulting in a skin that is crispy and crunchy, while the meat stays fresh and succulent. – The Malaysian Insight pic, November 27, 2021.

TABLE & Apron’s fish and chips were the talk of the town when it launched as a one-week special in September, and I found out why during lunch there recently.

The catfish is lightly coated in buckwheat batter and deep-fried, resulting in a skin that is crispy and crunchy, while the meat stays fresh and succulent. It just needs a little tartar sauce – or not. I enjoyed it without the sauce.

Though we had the normal French fries as sides, I would have preferred the thick-cut chips that originally comes with the dish.

The fish and chips (RM28) mimics the well-loved buckwheat fried chicken at Table & Apron, a popular restaurant in Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya.

It is a tried-and-tested recipe and available on Friday nights and weekends.

Altogether the ulam rice is a flavoursome dish, scented with herbs and oil. – The Malaysian Insight file pic, November 27, 2021.

Any ulam rice on a cafe menu piques my interest. I have had Table & Apron’s version (RM38) once and am happy that it has been further developed.

Chunks of fried, home-made mung bean tempeh have been added to the array of finely julienned kesom, kaffir lime leaves, bunga kantan, long beans, mint, fried peanuts and a small lime.

Atop the rice is shredded fish (ikan tongkol) poached with lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, salted fish, kerisik and freshly grated coconut. It is completed with a drizzling of curry leaf-infused oil.

Altogether it was flavoursome rice, scented with herbs and oil. The tempeh was crunchy and yummy even on its own.

In my opinion, the dish would have been texturally perfect without the peanuts, but you can always set them aside.

The Sanbanto pork chop with chimichurri and charred baby kailan. – The Malaysian Insight file pic, November 27, 2021.

Also on the menu are ricotta, roasted cauliflower and breadcrumbs (RM21), smoked mackerel pâté (RM10) and sourdough toast (RM4).

The cauliflower is crunchy and smoky, and pairs well with the ricotta cheese, cilantro and red onion. The smoked mackerel is served with cream cheese, lemon zest, onion, spring onion and olive oil, with horseradish pâté, and goes well with sourdough.

Roast cauliflower with ricotta and breadcrumbs. – The Malaysian Insight pic, November 27, 2021.

The pineapple-ketchup glazed ribs with tamarind and chilli dip (RM30) dish is so well-cooked that the meat falls off the bone. But it is a little too sweet for me.

I preferred the Sanbanto pork chop with chimichurri and charred baby kailan (RM58). A dish that pairs a juicy and tender shoulder cut with a citrusy hot dip.

For dessert, we had apple crumble pie and for drinks, we had Earl Grey milk tea, pineapple and assam boi, and hops kombucha.

The apple crumble pie at Table & Apron. – The Malaysian Insight file pic, November 27, 2021.

I would recommend the Earl Grey milk tea (RM15) with gula Melaka, evaporated milk and salted whipped cream.

“It is our take on teh tarik and was our Merdeka special four years ago,” said eatery Marcus Low. The restaurant has been around for seven years and boasts a loyal following.

Earl Grey milk tea, hops-infused kombucha and pineapple and assam boi. – The Malaysian Insight pic, November 27, 2021.

Also on the menu are handmade pastas such as duck and zucchini tagliatelle and spaghetti alle vongole with chilli, garlic and Shao Xing wine.

Table & Apron offers a set lunch of buckwheat fried chicken chop with garlic rice (RM20), pork meatball with mashed potatoes (RM20) and catfish unagi rice bowl (RM17), among others, on weekdays.

It is located at 23, Jalan SS20/11, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, and can be reached at 03-7733-4000. It is closed on Mondays. – November 27, 2021.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.


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