THERE is a quality of fineness in common among the Malay, Thai and even Laotian dishes at Nipah EQ Kuala Lumpur for berbuka puasa. They are unlike the usual fare at other places and I’m so glad to have had the chance to enjoy them at the restaurant just before MCO3 put paid to dining out.

As a result of the movement curbs, Nipah has switched to delivery and takeaway mode, and what was on the Ramadan buffet is now on the a la carte menu. A variety of dishes are also available in the Hari Raya tiffin carrier sets.

We had our dinner “hidang” style, or served at the table. Perhaps this enhanced our enjoyment of the food, which we could savour slowly and comfortably seated instead of having to go back and forth from the table to the buffet for it. 

First up were three types of serunding – fish, chicken and beef – and beef rendang served with lemang, both of white and red pulut. The lemang was of the right softness and lovely. The beef rendang was flavourful and not too rich.

I liked very much the itik salai dan nenas kari merah Laos, a red curry of smoked duck with pineapple fragrant with turmeric leaf and other herbs. The asam pedas ikan tenggiri came out well too, with the fish bathed in a welcoming mellow sourness.

Kari Siam daging rusuk, a mild massaman curry of Australian short ribs, roasted shallots and potatoes tasted good too. I could not resist a taste of briyani gam Johor with lamb and it was delicious, the rice well infused with the spices and juices from the marinated lamb.

Nipah’s bubur lambuk is one of the finest I’ve had. The porridge was light and satisfying, not thick and stodgy. It’s got fish in it and was tangy with lime. There was the unusual ubi kayu with sambal ikan bilis. I like the taste of the slightly sweet tapioca with fresh coconut paired with the sambal.

Opor ayam, gulai Nyonya udang nenas, sotong kangkung, kerabu mangga a la Siam, Ma Hor and rojak made up our other dishes for dinner. Ma hor or galloping horse is a yummy Thai appetiser of sticky spiced meat and dried shrimps on pineapple slices. Young mango, snake beans, crispy anchovies, peanuts and herbs are in this Thai-style salad.

My picks of dessert included choux durian, cempedak financier, ciku cheesecake and onde onde. The choux was the best,  being a crusty pastry that squirted almost pure durian cream at each bite. The cheesecake was not bad either. The ciku fruit actually worked with the creamy cheesecake.

Chef Hafizzul Hashim showed versatility in presenting an array of dishes, being well versed in European and South East Asian cuisines. He has had work experience at five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants in the United Kingdom, and in Vietnam and Japan. In Kuala Lumpur, he has worked for several upscale restaurants and hotels, and was with the Equatorial Kuala Lumpur till it closed in 2012.

Some of the other dishes in Nipa’s a la carte menu are gulai lemak cili padi daging salai, kerabu limau Bali dan udang, gulai kawah tulang rusuk, wok-fried local clams with Thai chilli jam and basil, sambal tumis udang galah, wok-fried river prawns in chilli relish, ikan siakap tiga rasa, deep-fried whole barramundi with spicy, sweet and sour chilli relish, crispy fried Asian basil, chilli and toasted rice powder, gulai lemak cili padi daging salai and ayam kari kapitan.

Three-tier tiffin carrier sets are available until May 12, Individual portions are priced at RM128, and the family set for five at RM508.  In Set A for the family, you get steamed fragrant rice, sambal tumis udang galah, gulai lemak cili padi daging salai, ayam kari kapitan, pecal Jawa, acar rampai, serawa nangka, and premium dates.

The Hari Raya tiffin carrier sets, which make good gifts, are available from May 11 to June 12. Choose from  set lemang nipah, set lontong raya and set pulut kuning raja. Nipah EQ is in Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Call 03 2789 7839, 012 278 9239, for enquiries. – May 8, 2021.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.