THERE’S no better place to dine at Ember Modern Bistro than its long counter, where you can interact with the chef and feel the throb of action from the open kitchen.

Will things return to how they were before the movement-control order (MCO)?

For now, Ember chef-owner Gary Anwar is focused on making available for takeaway and delivery his much talked-about “Smoked” Beef Tartare, Eggplant Salad with Sesame-Miso Dressing, Grilled Lamb and Noodles, and Cold Noodles with Duck and Ponzu.

His restaurant in Taman Tun Dr Ismail showcases contemporary Asian cuisine with Japanese, Middle Eastern and Malaysian nuances and ingredients.

Gary honed his craft at various Spanish tapas restaurants in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. His last stint was at Babe, a Japanese-influenced tapas eatery in the capital.

Savouring the “Smoked” Beef Tartare (RM37) at home is just as pleasurable.

Small cubes of Australian wagyu MB6 Karubi stirred with yuzu mayo, smoked oil, kerisik, spring onion and fried shallots evoke the senses. The creamy beef is smoky and fragrant with citrusy notes, rich with kerisik and crispy shallots, and fresh with spring onion.

I was bowled over by the Eggplant Salad with Sesame-Miso Dressing (RM23).

Every bite of the luscious grilled vegetable yields striking flavours, from the nutty dressing to the heat of chilli oil and a hint of cumin, along with sweet, juicy pomegranate and crunchy shallot crisps. It’s a textural delight, a happy marriage of Middle Eastern and Japanese that I couldn’t get enough of.

The Grilled Lamb and Noodles with spring onion relish and soy butter (RM33) satisfies cravings for meat and carbs.

The sauce from the tender, moist lamb drizzles down to coat the noodles, and the relish pairs well with the protein. This comes in a fair portion, so I kept the leftovers for the next day. Covered with foil and warmed up in the oven, it’s just as good.

Perfect for a hot afternoon is the Cold Noodles with Duck and Ponzu (RM23).

The perky ponzu sauce of calamansi, lemon, lime and grapefruit, slices of pickled pear, duck and noodles come together harmoniously. The sauce is gently tart, and the pickled pear works wonders.

These four dishes make for a five-star meal – not at five-star prices – to indulge in, in the comfort of home.

Also on the menu are the Wagyu Beef and Rice (RM35), Sweet Potatoes with Smoked Yoghurt (RM17), Duck Ramen with Homemade Noodles (RM23), Japanese Rice Congee (RM13), Dry-Aged Duck Rice (RM33) and Kombu Butter (RM23 for 80g).

Place your orders via Ember’s website or send a WhatsApp message to 018-3232-786.

During the MCO, the restaurant is open from 12pm to 8pm, Monday through Saturday.

It is located at 20, Jalan Wan Kadir 1 in TTDI, Kuala Lumpur. – May 2, 2020.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.