THE nuances of Nyonya cuisine are deftly captured at Ceki, a Penang restaurant where we had lunch recently.

We ordered the Asam Pedas Garoupa, which has fresh, meaty fillet in a subtly sweet-and-sour tamarind-based curry.

This comes with ladies’ fingers, and a generous topping of mint leaves and finely chopped bunga kantan.

Mint is seldom found in Nyonya asam curries in Kuala Lumpur. This herb together with the bunga kantan give the asam pedas a fragrant lift.

Ayam Buah Keluak is originally a Peranakan specialty, hailing from the southern region spanning Malacca to Singapore. The northern Nyonyas, however, have embraced it as their own.

It used to be a dish served only during periods of mourning, according to my foodie friend Peter Yeoh, as buah keluak, or mangrove nut, is black in colour.

We are passionate about buah keluak, and at Ceki, the nuts are cooked with chicken in rempah (spice paste) and tamarind water. We dug out the creamy nut flesh, relishing its earthy flavour that complements well the lovely curry.

Be sure to get every bit of the moist, caramelised asam paste sticking to the shell before devouring the Asam Prawns. The most delicious for me are the crunchy shrimp heads.

Tangy with a tinge of sweetness, this is one superb dish.

The Sambal Brinjal, with prawns and onions mixed in, is irresistible. The vegetable is pillowy soft and the sambal, aromatic.

The Choon Pheah, or Spring Rolls, is crispy on the outside and bursting with a filling of pork belly, prawn and crabmeat fried with cabbage, sengkuang and mushroom.

Ceki’s Steamed Pork Belly with Salted Fish is comfort food to delight. Bits of salted fish add a briny kick to the slices of tender pork layered with fat, and ginger lends a great zing.

Refreshingly tart and icy is the Roselle Juice. Crowned with bright-red petals, it is a striking drink.

There’s a heritage feel about Ceki, which is decorated with traditional Nyonya ware, carvings and baskets. Two beautiful kebaya, belonging to owner Esther Tan’s grandmother, are framed and hung on the wall. Most of the recipes here are hers, too.

Other signature dishes are the Claypot Curry Fish Head, Tau Ewe Bak (Braised Pork Belly in dark soy sauce with bean curd), Pork Belly Cincaluk, Black Vinegar Pork Trotters, Perut Ikan, and Sambal Goreng Prawns in coconut milk with lemongrass.

The Ayam Buah Keluak is RM25, Sambal Brinjal (RM18), Choon Pheah (RM16), Asam Prawns (RM36) and Steamed Pork Belly with Salted Fish (RM20). These prices are for a “small” portion.

Ceki is located at 11-A, Jalan Sri Bahari, 10050, George Town, Penang. It can be reached at 011-1051-7976. – December 7, 2019.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.