Sri Ahthsyswary serves up banana leaf bliss


Eu Hooi-Khaw

Behold, a complete banana leaf meal at Sri Ahthsyswary Curry House. An extra helping of rice may be necessary to go with the many scrummy side dishes. – September 14, 2019.

I’M always raring to go for banana leaf rice heaped with chutneys, sambal and vegetables, which make the meal colourful, tasty and complete.

We would add fish, mutton, chicken or squid curry dishes, and of course, the much-loved crispy fried bitter gourd.

The right place to have such a spread is Sri Ahthsyswary Curry House in Petaling Jaya.

We began with three chutneys, two kinds of sambal and four types of vegetables surrounding a mound of parboiled rice on a piece of banana leaf. This itself makes for a satisfying meal, and you can ask for extra helpings of the chutneys and vegetables.

The mango chutney is both sweet and tart. We also had the onion and lime chutneys, as well as a dark vegetable sambal and what tasted like pickled salted fish, but was actually ikan yu (shark) sambal.

The quartet of (clockwise from top left) bitter gourd in curry, cucumber raita, spinach in dhal curry and fried cauliflower offer flavours and textures that contrast, and yet, complement. – September 14, 2019.

The four vegetables are cucumber raita, spinach in dhal curry, bitter gourd in curry and fried cauliflower.

I had second helpings of the punchy mango chutney and yummy ikan yu sambal.

Tempting though it may be, you have to put the brakes on ordering everything you fancy from among the dishes on display, or you’ll end up having to pay more than you expected.

Crispy bitter gourd is a staple in a banana leaf meal, and is it any wonder? – September 14, 2019.

We had a large plate of crispy bitter gourd, as well as deep-fried spicy mushrooms.

We couldn’t resist the mutton varuval, while the chicken varuval came recommended by the persuasive restaurant owner.

We also opted for the fish head curry (tenggiri) instead of fried fish fillet. I asked for more curry on my rice.

The mutton varuval may be dry-style, but the cubes of well-spiced meat are sure to make your mouth water. – September 14, 2019.

All in all, it was a delicious meal, enjoyed with sweat running down my face.

Initially, I wanted to take less rice, but I just had to ask for more to go with the many things on my banana leaf!

The boneless cubes of tender meat, well-infused with spices, in the dry-style mutton varuval are scrumptious. The chicken varuval, though, is not as good.

Mushrooms deep-fried to golden, crunchy perfection. – September 14, 2019.

The fish head we had was more bony than fleshy, but I liked the lightly tart curry it came in, as well as the accompanying ladies’ fingers.

The fried bitter gourd and spicy mushrooms, meanwhile, are delectable and addictive.

A cup of rasam is served with the meal.

The chicken varuval, which came recommended, is nothing to shout about. Opt for the mutton version instead. – September 14, 2019.

Though we ate more rice than we should, I did not feel sleepy after the feast. Perhaps it was because we had parboiled rice, which has less starch.

A vegetarian banana leaf meal here costs RM6, while it’s RM8 for non-vegetarian, where you get ikan yu sambal and other side dishes.

The mutton varuval costs RM15 for a large serving, chicken varuval (RM12, large serving) and fish head curry (RM25). Our bill came up to RM88 – we thought we paid too much for the small, bony fish head.

Crab curry is among the dishes that pair swimmingly with banana leaf rice. – September 14, 2019.

You can get your fill of thosai, puttu, apam, roti canai and mee goreng here, too.

Sri Ahthsyswary has been in Petaling Garden for 28 years. It also does catering.

It is located at 2 & 3, Jalan 5/44, Petaling Garden, 46000, Petaling Jaya. A good landmark is Khunthai Thai Restaurant along the same road.

Sri Ahthsyswary can be reached at 012-280-5377 or 03-7784-4560. – September 14, 2019.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.


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