CHEF Bertrand Langlet may have closed Ma Maison, his French restaurant in Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, but he’s still active on the food scene.  

Since the closing of the famed eaterie that has served many loyal patrons over the years, he helped set up The Bakery Ukay Heights, and now his latest project is Kara Conceptual French Cuisine Restaurant in Kota Damansara. He’s overseeing the kitchen there.

On a visit to the restaurant this week, I was pleased to find some well-loved dishes of Ma Maison are on Kara’s menu, with some refinements. One of these is the Pan-Fried Duck Liver (foie gras) on Russet Potatoes with Green Grapes. The foie gras was on point, going “ping” at the bite, with rich bursts on the palate. The foie gras rested on gratinated potatoes that were crispy on the edges, then on salad with halved sweet grapes.  Sweet always goes with foie gras, and, altogether, this was a balanced offering.

We thought the Baked Fish Dumplings with Prawn Sauce was very good. The dumplings were smooth and creamy, bathed in a delicious prawn bisque. Bertrand reminded me I had had these at Ma Maison before.

We started dinner with Escargot a la Bourguignonne, or escargot in garlic herb butter and Gratinated French Onion Soup. These classic French dishes were well executed.  The French Onion Soup had caramelised onions simmered in a beef broth and finished in the oven with grated cheese on toast on top of it. This was lovely, with the anticipated flavour of sweet onions, and dipping your spoon through the strong melted cheese on the bread.

The escargots were tucked into choux pastry, drenched in the creamy, garlic herb sauce. The choux pastry was good for mopping up the delectable sauce after savouring the escargots.

We would have preferred a richer and more flavourful broth for the Bouillabaise, which was filled with mussels, scallops, tiger prawns and salmon. This lighter soup also had broccoli, asparagus, potato and carrot in it. It was peppery , with hints of star anise.

Even the two young children at our table liked the Duck Breast with Green Peppercorns. The duck was rich, tender and aromatic. Gratinated potatoes and the creamy sauce with green peppercorns were a pleasing complement. We all love the potato gratin here, which appears in the main courses. The thinly sliced potatoes, baked with cream and cheese, are so good.

I liked the addition of ratatouille and potato gratin to the grilled Lamb Rack with Provencal Herbs. All these made a hearty meal of lamb.

A dressed up Creme Caramel or Caramelised Custard Flan with Fruits, and Pancake with Apple and Orange Sauce were our desserts. I liked the crepes plumped up with apple mash and finished with orange sauce and ice cream. They were sublime.

For a fine-dining establishment, prices were reasonable: the escargots were RM32, foie gras RM56, fish dumplings RM34, duck breast RM52, French Onion Soup RM14, Creme Caramel RM14 and pancake with apple and orange sauce RM18. In true Bertrand style, the portions were hearty and can be shared. The place is pork-free.

Kara Restaurant is located at A-5-1, Sunway Giza, 2 Jalan PJU 5/14, Kota Damansara, Petaling Jaya, tel: 03-7622 2868.  It’s above the Orange Boutique next to TM Point and Public Bank.  – November 24, 2018.

* Eu Hooi Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects of it, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published  a cookbook ‘Fresh Ingredients’ and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* Eu Hooi-Khaw has been writing about food for the longest time, covering all aspects, from restaurant reviews to cooking and recipes, as well as the healthy side of it. She has written for major newspapers and magazines, published the cookbook Fresh Ingredients, and also writes for her website hooikhawandsu.com.

* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.