FOR those who have never been to Iran, I suppose the perception of the country would be rather discouraging. Images conjured would likely be of conflict, military uniforms, conservative third-world radical Muslims, women covered in black from head to toe, bearded men with turbans and of course the Ayatollah.

I don’t blame anyone if that’s true because that’s precisely the same perception I had before arriving. Iran was one of the countries that was considered high-risk when planning the route for this journey. Apart from Pakistan, Iran was one of the countries to get out of as soon as possible. We were wrong about Pakistan. 

We sure as hell were wrong about Iran. 

We had crossed from Taftan into Mirjaveh on the Iranian side after our five-day ordeal of being denied exit from Pakistan. We were exhausted by then, and the immigration process took awhile before we were put on an army lorry and escorted to Zahedan. The police, while friendly, were always with us, which quickly became bothersome, more so with the language barrier. They wouldn’t let us out of their sights, and it got us wondering if that’s the way it was going to be throughout our journey in Iran.

At Zahedan, we were met by our host Mohammad, who was a tad standoffish at the beginning, most possibly due to language issues. Mohammad was supposed to guide us to a budget accommodation, but decided to put us up in his home, instead. Mohammad was a great host, and we slowly overcame the language handicap and warmed up to each other. He even got me to finish a litre bottle of moonshine with him on the first night, which explained the spinning ceiling when I tried to sleep. I guess that also answers the question on the availability of alcohol in Iran. 

We stayed in Zahedan for a couple of nights and decided to take a train to Tehran rather than cycle, since we badly needed a good rest. The fact that it’s mostly desert between Zahedan and Tehran helped to hasten that decision, too. The train ride lasted 23 hours, but was comfortable. The carriage was modern, quiet and very clean. 

Tehran reminded me of London, or any European city. We arrived at the tail-end of winter, and the weather, while a little chilly, was pleasant. Tehran is clean, modern and very cultured. It is easy to forget that Persia was one of the earliest civilisations in the world. It was also one of the rising nations before the Islamic revolution of 1979. 

Most of the locals I spoke to remain convinced that the revolution was instigated by the West, who were less than thrilled about the rise of Iran at the time. The younger generation in Iran are also restless and seem disillusioned with the Mullahs’ rule. There is a great sense among the young that change will, and needs to, happen at some point, sooner rather than later. 

My impression of Iranians is a positive one. They are hospitable, gentle, industrious and very cultured. Naturally, the younger set are more outgoing, but remain courteous. The problem for tourists would be the lack of English, which makes communicating tedious and frustrating sometimes. Also, because the banking system is very localised, no foreign credit cards can be used in Iran, so remember to bring sufficient cash if you plan to visit. 

Public amenities in Iran are excellent. The public toilets are generally clean and even have hot water. Iranians pride themselves with cleanliness, and there’s always a rubbish bin nearby. Heating is commonly available and we were never cold when indoors. If there’s anything to complain about Iran, it would be the lack of variety with the food. But then again, as a Malaysian, every part of the world will appear lacking in variety when it comes to food.

Another low about Iran would be its drivers. They have to be among the worst I have ever encountered. Reckless and generally too fast for anyone’s good. Staying in one lane appears to be a huge challenge for Iranian motorists, and they often speed past at a less than comfortable distance from our bikes. 

The perception that Iranians are highly religious given their cleric rule also appears to be untrue. They don’t seem particularly pious, but are more attached to cultural practices, and are an easy going lot. Liberal, as a matter of fact. Many of the old taboos are slowly being removed and society is outwardly free, with the exception of certain restrictions on dressing, particularly for women. I had cheekily travelled in my shorts throughout Iran, and while it was frowned upon maybe once or twice by the more conservative types, it didn’t raise that many eyebrows.

The landscape in Iran is stunning. The rugged outback and mountain ranges are magnificent and breathtaking. We capped our visit to Iran with a quick jaunt to the Caspian Sea, some 300km from Tehran, fulfilling a teenage curiosity of mine when I dipped my feet in it.

We left Iran on March 24, and crossed into Turkey to start a new chapter of this world tour. We left with not only so many fond memories, but, more importantly, eye-opening perceptions about a country we hear of so much of but know very little about. I would encourage everyone to consider Iran as a holiday destination. You will be bowled over. 

To all the friends we made  Iran, we thank you for everything, particularly Shahin and Jamek in Tehran, who put us up and treated us well. They epitomise Iranian hospitality and we will not forget them in a hurry.

Seven Wunders understands that The Malaysian Insight will be suspending its publication soon and this may be our last article here. I am saddened but would nevertheless like to take this opportunity to thank Jahabar Sadiq and his team for the opportunity to record our journey here. It has been my privilege and pleasure to share our stories with you. Ving Lee and I wish you all the best in your future endeavours. Fare thee well and thank you for supporting our cause. 

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* The writer is riding a bicycle around the world with Ving Lee to raise awareness about children with cancer. The Malaysian Insight is the media partner for the SevenWunders initiative.

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* This is the opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of The Malaysian Insight. Article may be edited for brevity and clarity.